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Wednesday, September 5, 2018

Vintage Harris Tweed - A Closeup

Ah, late summer is my favorite season in Bavaria only surpassed by my love for autumn.  I'm feeling autumn in the air these days, although I hope for a beautiful September, I love the crispness in the air, which of course is all the justification I need to begin to think about taking out the tweeds.  Of course, Harris Tweed being my favorite for both it's textureous, rustic nature and it's availability is a nearly endless variety or weaves.  Vintage Harris Tweeds especially come in nearly infinite varieties.  This jacket is a perfect example of this assertion.  Essentially a black and white herringbone with some barleycorn added in with very subtle gold and teal vertical stripes.  Certainly not a weave you would ever expect to find in shops today (except perhaps those selling vintage wear), this jacket was made up by a company (no longer in business sadly) called Cricketeer.  Purchased last spring from Misters E & Bay, this past spring, this is the first real opportunity I've had to wear it, which is a real treat.  Tailored with a beautiful 2-3 roll, which along with the weave itself and the patch pocket details was the reason for my purchase.  I think this jacket looks very sporty in an old school sort of way.  Indeed, this particular combination was inspired by my recent re-viewing the movie Chariots of Fire, one of the most influential style movies of my youth.  I love the casual way that tweeds and other sportswear such as the ubiquitous cricket jumper were combined in this movie, to set a mood of classic monied elegance. incidentally, some great stills from this classic movie have been gathered on Goldneagemenswear blog.

Also, looks great with tan, woven leather buttons:

Wool Pocket square from Gutteridge in Milan:

This sports coat is nicely done with patch pocket, which to my mind really makes it more casual and therefore conducive with sportswear (here shown with Chino's, White Polo shirt and cricket jumper).  Half-lined, and tidily finished on the inside, makes it breathe a bit more than a fully lined jacket and easier to wear in shoulder seasons when the weather can be a bit warmer (even here in Bavaria).

The Close-ups:
Provided for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren: Harris Tweed in black and White herringbone with a bit of barleycorn - giving the jacket a light gray overall presentation and with teal and gold/mustard stripe, which in this jacket just adds to its sporty feel.   Of course, as is nearly always the case with Harris Tweed, upon closer inspection the range of colors in the weave is amazing, adding up to a richness and depth of color that is just phenomenal:

I think it looks great over a pair of chinos from Marinepool, Cricket Sweater in ivory cotton and merino wool with navy stripe detail by Abercrombie & Fitch, white Polo shirt by Lacoste, and white and tan saddle shoes by G.H. Bass & Co.

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