WWI B5 Boots by William Lennon & Co.

 

William Lennon WWI B5 boots

William Lennon B5 Boots – A Handsome Brute of a Boot

If you have been following this blog or my recent Facebook/Instagram posts, it will come as no surprise that I have recently become somewhat obsessed by William Lennon & Co.  Having been thoroughly impressed by my 78TC custom work boots from William Lennon & Co. and the Pentrich boots from Stanley Biggs (also made by William Lennon), I was eager to try something a little different—something with the same rugged, old-world craftsmanship but with a more military-inspired design. Enter the B5 ankle boots, a classic British Army-style boot, available through Varusteleka.

First Impressions

Straight out of the box, these boots exude history. The design is based on the British Army B5 boot pattern, used from the early 20th century provided to troops in the Great War. William Lennon (estabished 1899) were one of the original contractors for these boots as use the same Brass Screw contrstuction and lasts, so these are more of a continuation series as opposed to replicas.

It’s a no-frills, tough-as-nails boot built for hard wear. The uppers are crafted from sturdy 3mm thick Black reverse kip butt hide, tanned in the UK.  Kip leather is a high-quality, full-grain leather sourced from young cattle, making it softer and more pliable than standard cowhide while retaining excellent toughness.

The heritage brass-screw construction, for which William Lennon is famed, is solid, and the double-layer leather mid-soles (natural finish as I prefer) combined with Svig rubber forepart and heel outsoles provide excellent durability and traction. Unlike the original Great War boots, which featured iron hobnails, this modern interpretation is designed for street wear without compromising on heritage aesthetics.

The simple seven-eyelet lacing system, combined with a no-nonsense soft-toe design, gives the B5 an understated but distinctly vintage look. The thick, black-finished Kip leather is substantial yet supple, with a deep, rich sheen that promises to develop character over time.

Fit & Comfort

William Lennon boots often require a break-in period, and the B5 is no exception. The thick leather and sturdy sole mean they start off feeling a bit stiff, but after a few wears, they begin to mold nicely to the foot. Sizing of the original WWI 2181 last is very generous, so consider a half-size down if you're between sizes.  At first I wasn't so sure about the squarish toe profile and wider instep of this last, but it's been growning on me and it certainly provides great walking stability.  

As you can see from the above photos, I have choosen to switch out the leather laces that came with these boots to 6mm flat waxed cotton laces from Italian Premium lace maker Laccico (highly Recommended).

Verdict

If you appreciate heritage footwear and want something that blends military history with everyday wearability, the William Lennon B5 boots are an excellent choice. They're built to last, age beautifully, and offer a slice of history with every step. The use of modern rubber outsoles instead of iron hobnails ensures they remain practical for daily wear while staying true to their rugged origins.

Check them out at Varusteleka.

New boots arrival from William Lennon

 

William Lennon Boots - Custom Model 78TC from Natural DHF Horsehide leather

New boots arrival from William Lennon

New boots arrival from William Lennon -Why I’m in Love with My New William Lennon 78TC Traditional Custom Work Boots

There’s nothing quite like slipping on a pair of boots crafted with exceptional materials and care, and my newly arrived William Lennon 78TC traditional custom work boots exemplify this level of quality and attention to detail. These boots are made from Horween’s Double Horse Front (DHF) natural finished (undyed) horsehide leather, sourced directly from the historic Horween Tannery in Chicago. They also feature a triple leather sole that’s secured with William Lennon’s unique heritage brass screw construction, along with a Dainite logger rubber forepart and heel. To complete the look, I added olive flat waxed cotton laces by Laccico, Italy. Here’s why these boots have quickly become my go-to pair.

The Unique Character of Horween’s Double Horse Front Leather

Horween Chicago leather is already iconic, but the DHF (Double Horse Front) leather brings an entirely new level of rugged elegance to these boots. DHF leather is known for its dense grain and high durability, making it an ideal choice for work boots built to withstand daily wear and tear. The leather is natural finished and undyed, which means it showcases the unique patterns, subtle marks, and slight imperfections that tell a story of the hide’s life. I’m a big fan of undyed leather because it lets the natural color variations and textures of the leather shine through, creating a one-of-a-kind appearance.

One of the things I love most about this leather is that it will age beautifully, developing a rich patina that reflects the experiences we’ll go through together. Each scratch, scuff, and crease will contribute to the unique look of the boots over time. This kind of leather isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about embracing a level of authenticity that makes each pair unique. With Horween’s DHF leather, I feel like I’m wearing a piece of history that gets better with age.

Lined with Natural Calfskin for Comfort

While the outer leather is all about durability and ruggedness, the inside of these boots tells a different story. The natural undyed calfskin lining provides an unmatched level of comfort. Calfskin is softer than most other leathers, making it incredibly gentle against the foot. Not only does it feel luxurious, but it also adds breathability, which is essential for all-day wear. This lining molds to the shape of my feet over time, creating a custom fit that’s unique to me. Every time I put these boots on, they feel like a soft, reassuring hug for my feet—something I never thought I’d say about work boots!

Triple Leather Sole with Brass Screws and Dainite Logger Rubber

Dig those triple layer soles and stacked leather heals - that is a lot of first class vegetable tanned leather!

A defining feature of these boots is their triple-layer leather sole, a hallmark of high-quality, heavy-duty  footwear. This sole isn’t just about durability; it’s a work of art. Leather soles have a unique ability to mold to the shape of your feet, creating a more comfortable and personalized fit over time. The natural sole edge finish also complements the undyed leather of the upper, creating a cohesive and classic look.

What makes these soles stand out even more is William Lennon’s heritage brass screw construction. Unlike modern mass-produced footwear, these screws reflect traditional shoemaking techniques. Each brass screw is meticulously inserted, ensuring that the sole is as sturdy as it is stylish. This unique method not only secures the sole but also lends an old-world charm that’s rare in today’s world of footwear. It’s a small detail, but it’s one I deeply appreciate because it connects these boots to a legacy of British craftsmanship.

For added practicality, the boots feature a Dainite logger rubber forepart and heel, giving me confidence on slick or uneven surfaces. The Dainite rubber provides excellent traction and durability, making the boots versatile for both urban and outdoor environments. Whether I’m navigating wet city streets or rugged trails, these boots handle it all without sacrificing style.  Lennon were thoughtful to get these logger rubbers in brown instead of the more ubiquitous black - super attention to detail!

The unboxing:

Unboxing my new William Lennon boots made from Horween’s Double Horse Front (DHF) leather was an experience that engaged every sense—especially that incredible, rich leather smell. As I lifted the lid, I was instantly greeted by the scent of genuine, high-quality leather, a fragrance that speaks to the craftsmanship and tradition poured into these boots. Horween’s DHF leather is something truly special. It’s natural finished and undyed, showing the unique grain and texture that make each pair one of a kind. This isn’t leather that’s been overly treated or modified; it’s a true-to-life, raw material that wears its history proudly.

Taking the boots out, I could feel the sturdiness of the triple-layer leather sole, which is secured with heritage brass screws—a testament to William Lennon’s dedication to traditional shoemaking techniques. The Dainite logger rubber forepart and heel give them a substantial feel, promising both durability and grip. As I held them, the natural calfskin lining was soft to the touch, foreshadowing the comfort these boots will offer once they’re broken in. These boots aren't just about looks; they’re a piece of functional art, crafted with purpose. I can’t wait to see how they mold to my feet and develop their own patina over time.

The Perfect Finishing Touch: Olive Waxed Cotton Laces by Laccico

these Khaki/Olive laces from Laccico are a great match

As a final touch, I decided to swap out the standard leather laces for khaki/Olive coloured 6mm, flat waxed cotton laces from Laccico, (in my opinion these are the world's best laces). This might seem like a minor detail, but it’s one that makes a noticeable difference in the overall look. The olive/khaki color adds a hint of contrast against the natural horsehide, and I think matches the boot stitching colour, very well, making the boots stand out without being overly flashy. Waxed cotton laces are also highly practical—they’re durable, water-resistant, and hold their shape well. They stay tied securely and give the boots a refined, cohesive appearance.

My Lacing options:

Here are some of my other options, many looked great and I will probably try out further on down the line:

As a final touch, I decided to swap out the standard leather laces for khaki/Olive coloured 6mm, flat waxed cotton laces from Laccico, (in my opinion these are the world's best laces). This might seem like a minor detail, but it’s one that makes a noticeable difference in the overall look. The olive/khaki color adds a hint of contrast against the natural horsehide, and I think matches the boot stitching colour, very well, making the boots stand out without being overly flashy. Waxed cotton laces are also highly practical—they’re durable, water-resistant, and hold their shape well. They stay tied securely and give the boots a refined, cohesive appearance.

Here were some of my options, many looked great and I will probably try out further on down the line:

A Timeless Investment in Craftsmanship 

My Conclusion:

In a world where fast fashion often dominates, these William Lennon boots are a refreshing reminder of the value of true craftsmanship. Every detail of these boots, from the Horween DHF leather and brass screw construction to the Dainite rubber sole, speaks to a commitment to quality and tradition. These aren’t just boots; they’re an investment in style, durability, and authenticity.

With each wear, these boots mold more to my feet and develop more character, becoming an extension of my own experiences. I’m genuinely excited to watch them evolve and mature, knowing that every scratch and scuff will add to their story. These boots aren’t just about function; they’re a testament to a heritage of craftsmanship that values both beauty and longevity.

For anyone seeking a pair of boots that go beyond mere functionality to offer a true connection to craftsmanship and tradition, the William Lennon 78TC work boots are worth every penny. They’re a timeless addition to my wardrobe, and I look forward to many years of wear and adventures with them.

Stanley Biggs Pentrich Boots Made by Willian Lennon

 

Stanley Biggs Pentrich Boots Made by Willian Lennon

Stanley Biggs Pentrich Boots made by Willian Lennon - While I really love these boots made by William Lennon & Co. for Stanely Biggs Clothiers (see my initial unboxing and review here), the boots come with triple stacked leather soles and stacked leather heels, but their natural beauty was hidden by very dark brown leather edge dressing, which I'm generally not a big fan of on my casual footwear.  As a result I determined to refinish the edges by the use of 240 grit sandpaper on my tabletop belt sander and a little tanned leather dye then finishing them off with a waxed finish using Dark Tan Parade Gloss carnuba-based shoe wax from Kiwi.  I think that this has really transformed these boots!

Before:

After: