Arrival of My Grail Jacket: Ralph Lauren Green Tweed Messenger Jacket!!

Green-tweed-messenger-jacket-by-ralph-lauren

• Super excited by the arrival of this jacket, which I really fell in love with since seeing it online 2 or 3 years ago (see photo below), but since Ralph Lauren Tweed jackets are typically beyond my budget and the fact that this jacket when I discovered it was for a previous year collection and completely sold out, the solution was to keep an eye peeled on eBay and hope that one would go up for auction that I could afford.  Searching tweed jackets on eBay is something that I do often, but not what I would call obsessively.  Since I'm in Germany, I typically search the German or UK eBay on occasion, usually for Harris Tweed, which if you follow this blog, you'll know that I have a love for.  In any case about a month ago, this 'Grail Tweed' popped up on eBay UK and for a low starting bid that I could justify.  Knowing that if might be years before one came up again in my size, I put in an offer, which was just over the starting bid price.  This offer was proptly rejected by the seller (understandably so, as these jackets are very desirable to Ralph Lauren collectors).  So, I scheduled a bid that I could afford through Ezsnipper.com and crossed my fingers.  Long story short, and a week later (miracle of miracles), I won my jacket and at only a small bump over my initial offer price!

Ralph Lauren ad photo that sold me on this jacket

Ralph Lauren ad photo that sold me on this jacket

A week later it arrived at my door and in beautiful, nearly new condition.  The seller had said that he had only worn the jacket a few times and based on its condition, I think he was telling the truth.  I hung the jacket outside for a few hours to get the musty closet smell out and now I've got my nearly new grail Tweed and for a fraction of retail price.  So what's not to love?  Nothing!

The fit for me is pretty ideal, I know from experience that Ralph Lauren jackets are cut a bit leaner than most old-style Harris Tweed jackets in my collection, so instead of a 42R, I knew to be on the lookout for a 44R.

The Close-ups:
Provided for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren.  The Tweed cloth is a splendid olive green with shades of forest green and golden beige mixed in too, which gives the cloth its wonderful tweedy depth.  Certainly not a Harris Tweed, I'm not sure what cloth mill produced this fabulous weave, but the jacket was tailored in Italy, so my guess would be that it was woven in the UK or Italy.  Interestingly the blend is Lambswool 65% and Alpaca 35%, giving it a bit fuzzy, but extremely soft hand and drape and also makes it very warm without a lot of bulk

The details:
Of course, Ralph Lauren has released a numerous versions of the half-Norfolk jacket over the years, (see my previous review of Ralph Lauren Tweed Half-Norfolk Jacket), but the details of this jacket are really extraordinary and make it for me at least especially desirable.

• Wonderfully shaped expandable patch pocket
• Exterior pocket flaps with terrific scallop shape and leather button closure
• 3 button front closure with leather buttons
• 4 button sleeves (non-functioning)
• Belt back
• Action back or swing back sleeves
• Single vent in back
• buggy lined
• Tailored in Italy 
• Woven from 65% lambswool and 35% alpaca for warmth and softness

Styling the Ralph Lauren Green Tweed Messenger Jacket:
It's pretty easy to work with: A pair of chinos, some boots and perhaps a flat cap and you are halfway there:

Brown Glen Check Tweed Jacket by Ralph Lauren

Brown Glen Check Tweed Jacket by Ralph Lauren

I had been on the hunt for a brown Prince of Wales tweed jacket for a while now and had just not been able to nail down an example at a price point that I could justify.  However, recently perusing the offerings on Ebay.co.Uk, I came on just the thing.  Best of all, it was a made in Italy (by Corneliani) from Ralph Lauren in NOS unworn condition still with the tags on!  After working out shipping to me here in Germany with a very kind and accommodating seller (Thank you Sarah),  This beauty arrived at my door.

Of course, being in NOS condition this jacket overall including the lining was in perfect condition:

Brown Glen Check Tweed Jacket by Ralph Lauren - the back

Brown Glen Check Tweed Jacket by Ralph Lauren - the lining

Nice deep brown leather buttons are my favorites on tweed sports coats:

The Weave Close-ups:
Provided for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren: The pattern of this tweed weave is sort of a classic brown Glen Check (aka Prince of Wales) tweed with the major pattern carried out in deep browns on a tan background and featuring a really subtle, but wonderful over check with green (horizontal), light blue, burnt orange and burgundy (all vertical).  All these colors mean that matching this jacket with other wardrobe items is a snap.  The overall color and pattern of this jacket gives off a wonderfully old monied traditional vibe.

Overall Design and tailoring:

In addition to great traditional design by Ralph Lauren with flapped patch pockets and a very nice 2/3 roll button stance that is perfect for my 6'  2" frame, Corneliani (Ralph Lauren's Italian manufacture partner for premium tailoring starting in the late 1990s) has really done a spectacular job constructing this jacket and it got a marvelous premium feel from the first time one slips it on.  These jackets by Corneliani for Ralph Lauren are very highly regarded by men's clothing aficionados and I can now certainly understand why

Listed as a 44 regular but actually wears closer to a traditional 42 regular.  I would say generally it's not quite as close-fitting as many modern cut 44R jackets, but certainly not as generous as a traditional 44R.  I think the fit is about perfect for me and gives enough room to wear a sweater or a waistcoat without the feeling that it is at all confining.  Of course, I requested detailed measurements from the seller so that I was assured that the jacket would be a great fit with little or no need for adjustments,  To see my guide to buying pre-worn jackets online, please follow this link: 

https://thelandlessgentry.blogspot.com/2018/02/closeup-harris-tweed-vintage-green.html

I love all the details given on the Original Manufacturer's tag:

Here wearing the jacket with:

College strip wool scarf by Ryder &Amies 

Silk Repp Tie by Smart Turnout London

Blue and White Stripe button-down shirt by Samuel Windsor

Navy Merino V-neck sweater by Lochcarron of Scotland

Chinos with Black Watch Flannel lining by Lands End

Silk hunting motif silk pocket square by Cordings Piccadilly London

Eyewear by Persol

Tan leather Brogues by Gordon & Bros

Overall, this jacket fills a nice nitch in my wardrobe and I will look forward to wearing it for many, many years to come!

Ralph Lauren Tweed Half-Norfolk Jacket

Ralph Lauren Tweed Half-Norfolk Jacket

Hello Tweed lovers, I had meant to write a review of this Ralph Lauren Polo tweed jacket in rust brown since this past February, when I picked it up on eBay, but I simply ran out of time and so decided to hold off until this winter.  Well, I can tell you that among the many tweeds that I own, this is perhaps the most heavily built.  This Tweed, while being unlined, this as thick as on one of the old boiled wool Army blankets that we had during my childhood (but much better looking).  Perfect for the cold winter days and night of Bavaria.  In fact, I would say that with an Aran Sweater and a good scarf, this jacket would keep you as warm and just about any winter coat.

Classic Norfolk Jacket Pocket Details:
One of the things that I love most about the Norfolk and Half Norfolk jackets are the patch pockets with button flap detailing and most usually made with expandability style pleats.  Not only are these style pockets more visually interesting (to me at least), but they can also hold more, are more rugged, and with the inclusion of buttons flaps, are more secure at holding whatever of value you may put in them.  An extra plus is that these have a more vintage style than typical pockets. Like most Norfolk country jackets, this features high-quality woven leather buttons, which just adds to the country feel.

The Weave Close-ups:
Provided for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren: The pattern of this tweed weave is sort of a brown melange features brown, rust, orange, tan, beige and cream colors as well as a very subtle hint of soft olive. The overall weave of this tweed has so many great colors incorporated and with such subtlety, that from only a foot away, it gives a very unified rust/brown appearance. It is only from very near that one can admire these beautiful color tones from which it is comprised:

  

The Lining/Inside:

This jacket is only half-lined at the shoulder and in the sleeves but the remainder of the seams in the inside of this jacket are very neatly finished - a sure sign of great quality construction.  

Wearing:

Since I purchased this jacket in mid to late winter last year, I have only had a couple of opportunities to wear it, but have been very happy with the overall fit and very high-quality construction, here are some photo so my last wearing, which works, I think, very well with my newly arrived flannel-lined chinos from Lands End (a review will soon be forthcoming on these) and Blue Chambray shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt, a cream Aran Sweater, and Black Watch wool tie from Curzon Classics.