Arrival of My Grail Jacket: Ralph Lauren Green Tweed Messenger Jacket!!

Green-tweed-messenger-jacket-by-ralph-lauren

• Super excited by the arrival of this jacket, which I really fell in love with since seeing it online 2 or 3 years ago (see photo below), but since Ralph Lauren Tweed jackets are typically beyond my budget and the fact that this jacket when I discovered it was for a previous year collection and completely sold out, the solution was to keep an eye peeled on eBay and hope that one would go up for auction that I could afford.  Searching tweed jackets on eBay is something that I do often, but not what I would call obsessively.  Since I'm in Germany, I typically search the German or UK eBay on occasion, usually for Harris Tweed, which if you follow this blog, you'll know that I have a love for.  In any case about a month ago, this 'Grail Tweed' popped up on eBay UK and for a low starting bid that I could justify.  Knowing that if might be years before one came up again in my size, I put in an offer, which was just over the starting bid price.  This offer was proptly rejected by the seller (understandably so, as these jackets are very desirable to Ralph Lauren collectors).  So, I scheduled a bid that I could afford through Ezsnipper.com and crossed my fingers.  Long story short, and a week later (miracle of miracles), I won my jacket and at only a small bump over my initial offer price!

Ralph Lauren ad photo that sold me on this jacket

Ralph Lauren ad photo that sold me on this jacket

A week later it arrived at my door and in beautiful, nearly new condition.  The seller had said that he had only worn the jacket a few times and based on its condition, I think he was telling the truth.  I hung the jacket outside for a few hours to get the musty closet smell out and now I've got my nearly new grail Tweed and for a fraction of retail price.  So what's not to love?  Nothing!

The fit for me is pretty ideal, I know from experience that Ralph Lauren jackets are cut a bit leaner than most old-style Harris Tweed jackets in my collection, so instead of a 42R, I knew to be on the lookout for a 44R.

The Close-ups:
Provided for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren.  The Tweed cloth is a splendid olive green with shades of forest green and golden beige mixed in too, which gives the cloth its wonderful tweedy depth.  Certainly not a Harris Tweed, I'm not sure what cloth mill produced this fabulous weave, but the jacket was tailored in Italy, so my guess would be that it was woven in the UK or Italy.  Interestingly the blend is Lambswool 65% and Alpaca 35%, giving it a bit fuzzy, but extremely soft hand and drape and also makes it very warm without a lot of bulk

The details:
Of course, Ralph Lauren has released a numerous versions of the half-Norfolk jacket over the years, (see my previous review of Ralph Lauren Tweed Half-Norfolk Jacket), but the details of this jacket are really extraordinary and make it for me at least especially desirable.

• Wonderfully shaped expandable patch pocket
• Exterior pocket flaps with terrific scallop shape and leather button closure
• 3 button front closure with leather buttons
• 4 button sleeves (non-functioning)
• Belt back
• Action back or swing back sleeves
• Single vent in back
• buggy lined
• Tailored in Italy 
• Woven from 65% lambswool and 35% alpaca for warmth and softness

Styling the Ralph Lauren Green Tweed Messenger Jacket:
It's pretty easy to work with: A pair of chinos, some boots and perhaps a flat cap and you are halfway there:

Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina from The Nobel Shoe Co.

Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina

I've been tempted by these wonderfully hand-patina Jumper boots in Coimbra Patina from Carlos Santos for a while now and nearly pulled the trigger many times.  Finally, the great people at The Noble Shoe Co. issued a special offer at the end of last year for both their in-stock boots as well as their special order Patina Service by Carlos Santos (more on that below).  Their in-stock boots sold out in my size, so I ordered my boots through the Patina Service at the same great price, which only means that I needed to wait a few weeks for Carlos Santos to make them up in their workshop in Portugal.

 As you can see, the hand patina finish of these boots are stunningly beautiful.  However, the construction of these boots are every bit as impressive.  Goodyear Welted in Portugal with a Storm Welt and a Commando sole, they are pretty rugged as well.  Of course, while these boots are roughly modeled after the classic paratrooper boots, these are very definitely dressier boots and while I will certainly be wearing these for country walks, I won't be taking these on mountain hiking trails - I've got other boots more suitable for this usage such as my M120 Mountain boots from Fracap.  No these beauties will be worn primarily in and about town.

A feast for the eyes: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina

Carlos Santos Patina Service:
The Nobel Shoe offers 14 styles of shoes and boots from Carlos Santos in styles including from Monks and double monks, Oxfords, several styles of boots, penning loafers and even sneakers, however, if for whatever reason they don't have your chosen shoe in the patina finish you like in your size, you can special order the style you like in any of the 18 color patina finish options you fancy and they will be made up especially for you in the Carlos Santos workshops in Portugal and will typically be ready for shipment to you in 3-4 weeks.  My basic math tells me that between available shoe styles and Patina colors, there are 252 possible combinations from which you can choose to arrive at your ideal footwear!   I call that an extraordinary selection and service!

The Unboxing:
Quality presentation is the word that comes to mine, from the quality of the box, the shoehorn the brochure that explains the Goodyear welting construction method and the cloth shoe/boot travel bags everything in this presentation is of the highest quality from Carlos Santos.  I was especially impressed with the handwritten note that was included from Kostas, the owner of The Nobel Shoe Co. thanking me for my purchase.  This is the kind of personal touch that is very unusual and very much appreciated!

The Wear:
Trying on these boots, which I ordered in size UK 10/ EU 44/ US 11, they fit wonderfully - as though they had been made to measure and have marvelous comfort from the moment I slipped my feet into them.  Honestly, I can't imagine them being a more ideal fit.  The toe box is a bit longer (with a softly chiseled end) that my other shoes and boots, giving them a very elegant look that I think will pair well with dress trousers, Tweeds trousers as well as dressier chinos.

 Bottom line: Carlos Santos from the Noble Shoe are an A+ option if you are looking for a great quality handmade pair of dress shoes or boots with a very distinctive hand patina finish!

Newly Arrived Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics

I have purchased a number of great items from Curzon Classics over the years, all of which I have been completely happy with.  This latest waxed cotton 'Ryder' jacket in green is no exception - I couldn't be more pleased.  Before I go any further, I want to let you know that Curzon Classics has this great jacket offered at a very great discount off their already extremely competitive price, so I recommend that if you've been considering a waxed cotton jacket, you should head over to the website right away and snag yours before they're gone.

This jacket is extremely well made in England from waxed linen Japara 6 Cupra cloth manufactured in England by heritage cloth mill British Millerain.  I purchased size large, which fits very well on my 6' 2" inch (188cm), 191 lb/87 kg frame.  These jackets are cut very roomy to allow for plenty of layering, which I like because wearing it my one of my chunky Aran or Guernsey fisherman sweaters makes for a beautiful combination.  The Length of this jacket is just the right to land about mid-hip, which I think is a great length, although not long enough to cover a sports coat, that won't be a problem, as with the internal knit sleeve cuff, I wouldn't be wearing it over another jacket in any case.

This jacket boasts the following features:

• Rear vents for maximum comfort.
• Brass 2-way zip with large ring pull and studded storm flap.
• Snap throat latch.
• Four large external pockets - Two bellows and two lined hand-warmer pockets. 
• Two inner pockets - one zippered, which I really appreciate! 
• Corduroy collar in contrasting brown.
• Knit internal sleeve cuffs.
• Detachable hood.

While I have not yet spent a great deal of time in the rain, as so can't testify to its assurance of waterproofness, given the heritage and reputation of Japara 6 Cupra cloth, I have no doubt that this jacket is up to the task.  I have spent time walking in the local forest in windy conditions and it works great for wind-cheating.

The Unboxing:

Kind enough to send along a complimentary tie!  Thanks!

Nice touch - branded snaps!

Lined in a great looking cotton plaid the I think looks great!

Wonderful vintage label from Millerain fabric mill:

Of course, these waxed cotton jackets are classics of British style country wear and this Curzon Classics version is no exception.  I'm looking forward to breaking it in and expect to enjoy wearing it as my 3 season jacket for my years to come.