Today's outfit: Harris Tweed - Grey Herringbone

(It is very sunny today, which is why the sunnies;-)

Today's outfit features one of the first Harris Tweed jackets in my collection it's a Blue-Grey Herringbone with red and orange overcheck - this description sounds really loud but as you can see from the photos, it's quite subtle.  This jacket was made-up by Tom Rusborg of Copenhagen a review will be coming quickly on the heels of this post so I won't delve too deeply here.

• Harris Tweed Jacket by Tom Rusborg of Copenhagen
• Harris Tweed green herringbone scarf with orange and blue over-check by Ten10creations
• Blue Chambray Shirt by Charles Tyrwhitt
• Navy pullover by Lochcarron of Scotland
• Chino/jeans Twill Selvage by Bravestar Selvage
• 'Ryan' Boots by Grenson
• Eyewear: Persol PO3007-V 1056 with Clip-on Persol PO3007C-905/55 Light Gold
• Cognac peccary Diving gloves by Hungant 
• Wool Pocket square from Krawatten Hoff Munich (one of my favorite local store run by the lovely Elisabeth Maier - I'll be doing a full write-up on this little treasure of a store soon!

Plus: 

• PAM 288 on Racing Tan Teju Lizard strap from the Dangerous9straps Manufacture Collection.  These straps design specifically for PAM Radiomir looks stunning I think on my PAM288.  Dangerous9straps has these straps in current stock and available for immediate shipping.  

These Ryan boots by Grenson have treated me really well.  I originally bought them a few years ago in a very light brown and over-dyed them myself to the color you see here.  I also had my cobbler add some non-slip rubber pads to the leather soles which have the added benefit of incredible durability.  I think these are one of my favorite boots in my collection and are no doubt the ones that get the most wear and yet with reasonable care given to the uppers, will essentially last forever.

Review: Duffle Coat from John Partridge Co.

I purchased this coat at the same time that I purchased the Brown Tweed Lowland shooter jacket from John Partridge Co., and have to say I'm just as impressed.  Everything about this coat is an absolute home-run.  Starting with the very soft heavy dark Camel wool the has been double faced with a nice beige tartan on the inside which functions as a lining and provides incredible warmth to the genuine Horn tip toggles buttons (which I prefer to the wooden dowel toggles), the large flap patch pockets and the pancake hood, this coat is the genuine expression of the classic made famous by General Montgomery back in WWII.  Originally commisioned by the British Royal Navy, and also often used by crew members of merchant marine ships, which traveled in convoy for protection, they have also become know as 'Convoy Coats' You can find a really great history of the Duffle Coat on the Gentleman's Gazette and on the Grey Fox Blog.

The Duffle or 'Convoy' coat was also featured extensively in Hollywood movies, which only added to their civilian appeal, what man wouldn't want a little of the manly air of a Trevor Howard, David Niven or Gregory Peck:

Trevor Howard in spy thriller 'The Third Man'

Gregory Peck and David Niven in war time epic 'Guns of the Navarone'

A bit of the thunder has unfortunately been stolen from this post due to the fact that these coats are sold out on the John Partridge Co. website, their ladies version is still available.  I purchased the XXL version because I wanted to be able to layer mine over a thick sweater and I was pleasantly surprised that this fit was about ideal for this purpose.

It's plenty warm even when worn open, but when the wind kicks up and the snow really starts to fall, the overlapping front, easy operation horn toggles (don't need to remove your glove to operate) and close-fitting hood with extra neck latch, is when this coat really comes into its own.  The connection points for the toggles are triple reinforced proving this coat is built to last and ready to be pressed into war service should ever the need arise.

Cozy warm double-sided wool with one large internal pocket and triple reinforcements for the toggle connection points:

There is plenty of winter left so it's too bad that the men's versions are all sold out on the John Partridge Co. website, of course, you can always shop very similar coats at Gloverall (at 2 times the price) and on the 'Original Duffle Coat' website.  Or just wait for John Partridge to re-stock next fall.

Love the genuine steer horn toggles - much looker than the wooden versions:

Hood includes internal tabs to tighten against the nastiest of weather:

Today's outfit: Can't go wrong with Vintage Harris Tweed and Prince of Wales Fair Isle Pullover

Today's outfit is just a classic combo made a bit livelier by the addition of a green Harris Tweed with Red, Black, Blue, and Gold overcheck and the ever classic Price of Wales patterned Fair Isle sweater.  This pullover Fair Isle Pattern was made famous by the portrait of the young Prince of Wales wearing this sweater which was no double hand knitted for him as a gift and which he loved so much that he wore it for this portrait.  This version was knitted by Jamieson's of Shetland, who are rightly famous for their Fair Isle knitwear.  Sadly, I have not found anywhere that this version is currently available.  unfortunately, Jamieson's doesn't sell direct to the public, but Dick's of Edinburgh typically offers a good selection of designs.

Harris Tweed is resurfacing again in one of my favorite vintage sports jackets - green with over check in black, red, gold and blue.  The one you'll no doubt recognize from the header of this blog and one which I expect to soon do a close-up and review.

• Jacket: Vintage Harris Tweed purchased on E of Bay UK site
• Pullover: Prince of Wales pattern Fair Isle by Jamieson's of Shetland
• Flat Cap:  Herringbone Donegal Tweed from Aran Sweater Market
• Shirt: cotton and Merino wool blend tattersall by Viyella
• Tie: Tweed by Curzon Classics
• Trousers: Navy Whale Corduroys made to measure by Spencers Trousers
• Boots:  'Fred' - Tan Brogues by Grenson
• Eyewear: Model PO3012V in Havana by Persol

Plus:
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms on Dangerous9straps Antique Tan Ostrich Leg skin from from our Manufacture Collection.  These straps are in stock and available for immediate purchase:

Green Tweed Hunter jacket by Curzon Classics and Tweed Close-ups

Today's featured tweed is a great looking hunter jacket from Seville based Curzon Classics.  I have had the good fortune to purchase a number of items from Curzon Classics in the past year and while I think they're all great, this is the one Along with the scarf also featured that I find my self most often wearing.  Curzon is having an amazing 45% off sale on all their tweed jackets until Feb 14th, so I strongly recommend heading over to a killer deal on a great tweed.  I'm actually eyeing their Trent jacket using a great checked tweed from the mills of Abraham Moon!

This is a great looking and subtle green tweed, which like all tweeds has a wonderful texture and variations color in the cloth upon closer inspection.  When I bought this jacket I was really looking for the classic half Norfolk look, with bellows patch pockets, action back sleeves and half belt back tailoring.  This jacket ticked all those boxes, one slight surprise was that the action back sleeves are faux and are stitched down for some reason.  No matter, a quick trip to my alterations tailor can fix that problem if I wish.  This jacket has a great fit - lean without being tight, these run small so I bought the size 56 (US size 46) in order to have the room to layer it with a pullover.  The bellows pockets look really great and while I normally prefer a slightly softer shoulder, it's in no way a deal breaker.  I think the jacket overall look rather smart.

Very functional bellows pockets allows for pocketing treasures while on long walks in the countryside:

The Close-ups for my own enjoyment and for that of my tweed obsessed brethren:

Fully lined, which I prefer for tweeds, as it adds a bit more warmth:

Curzon Classics as been making great traditional British style clothing for men since 1990

Bonus feature:
The wonderful check scarf you see in some of the above photos is also from Curzon Classics (they are having a great 20% off sale storewide until Feb. 14th).  While I believe this scarf is sold out, they do have a number of others in stock.  It's super soft lambswool and is long enough to use my preferred double wrap method (nothing worse than a too short scarf).  These are generously proportioned at 10 x 66 inches, not including fringe.  Thankful to have it today, since Winter has made it's return to Bavaria today after many days of relatively balmy weather - Snow!!

Review: The Fred Boot from Grenson - 8 Years of Solid, Stylish Service and Still Going Strong!!

It's always great to read a review from some just received a great new product and they are in the first blush of excitement about their newly arrived item.  This will not be one of those reviews.  Not because I am not excited about my Fred boots from Grenson, nothing could be further from the truth.  My excitement, however, stems from a relationship that is deeper and more long term.  Having owned and worn these fine brogue boots for 8 years, I can say without question, that they are built for the long haul.  8 years of walking through city streets, country lanes, muddy parks and rugged, rocky mountain trials (and even the odd tree climb) they have proven that in spades.  I can't actually remember what I had paid for these boots back in 2010 when I purchased them from Pediwear, but whatever it was, I've more than gotten my money's worth.  They've kept me on my feet and looking stylish for all that time.  As any lover of traditional man's style, especially anyone who's as obsessed with tweed as I am, a great pair of brogues... well 'love and marriage, horse and carriage' come to mind.  If only 'Brogue' and 'Tweed' were easier to rhyme.

Grenson is a storied footwear brand that was founded way back in 1866 by William Green.  Grenson is famous was one of the first factories in the World to use the Goodyear Welted method of shoemaking.  Obviously, they have some pretty deep institutional knowledge about how to build shoes and boots right.  Building boots for British soldiers in both the Great War and in WWII, when durability can truly make the difference between life and death, Grenson boots have proven their metal a million times over.  Thankfully, I've never had the need to put mine through the rigors of battle, but I have little doubt I could march a hundred miles in them if need be. Napoléon Bonaparte was reputed to have said that 'an army marches on its stomach', which is certainly true, but my retort would be 'Not without stout boots they don't, shorty'.  Read the full story of Grenson's Heritage.

Of course, I'm pretty fastidious about taking good care of my shoes: I clean an polish then after every adventure in the mud and muck, and buff them off after every day's wear.  I give them a couple of good coats of wax regularly and of course use a high quality wooden shoe trees always (I recommend cedar for the smell that it imparts).  I don't keep any of my shoes with a mirror finish, as I personally like a good satin wax finish, with not too much shine.  Of course one can get pretty fancy with shoe care these days, what with creams, conditioners, and polishes, but to my thinking,  if you wax them on a regular basis, the leather will be just fine.  I like Kiwi Parade Gloss Prestige by the way, because it's got a Carnauba wax base, and offers enough shine and water protection without making a fetish of the whole thing.  I have been known to treat them once per year or so with a coat of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP, but otherwise, I just keep them polished with a few coats of wax.  I do like to give the toes and heal a good burnish with darker contrasting brown and black wax, which I think sets these tan boots up well.  I think they're quite fetching even after all these years.  

These Fred's came from the factory with slick leather soles which were fine in California, but were downright hazardous here in Germany, between all the rain and snow, I thought it best to have my local cobbler add some rubber lug soles and he's done a beautiful job of incorporating these and making them look great.  This is something I recommend for anyone who lives in a climate with a lot of wet weather.  Leather soles are not going to be happy with too much water exposure so I will have my cobbler add rubber non-slip pads (if this more of a dress shoe or lugs if they're for more rugged pursuits).  Do this and take good care of the uppers as previously stated, and your shoes will essentially last forever.  As you can see, after 7 years, these lug soles are wearing down a bit, and I will probably have them replace in a couple of years.

  

Please also bear in mind that while I have these in my regular rotation, I've got probably 20 pairs of shoes,  and so as a result, none of them see more that 2-3 weeks of total wear throughout the year.  Lastly, I don't often wear the same pair of shoes for more that 2 days in a row unless I'm traveling with them.  Remember, moisture will kill a good pair of shoes from the inside too and if you wear them every day for weeks or months you shoe with die a sad, miserable,  relatively quick (and soggy) death.  After 8 years of happy and regular wear, I have no doubt that, these Fred boots from Grenson have got many multiples of that still ahead of them!