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Saturday, February 15, 2020

Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina from The Nobel Shoe Co.

Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina
Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina


I've been tempted by these wonderfully hand-patina Jumper boots in Coimbra Patina from Carlos Santos for a while now and nearly pulled the trigger many times.  Finally, the great people at The Noble Shoe Co. issued a special offer at the end of last year for both their in-stock boots as well as their special order Patina Service by Carlos Santos (more on that below).  Their in-stock boots sold out in my size, so I ordered my boots through the Patina Service at the same great price, which only means that I needed to wait a few weeks for Carlos Santos to make them up in their workshop in Portugal.

Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina

Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina

 As you can see, the hand patina finish of these boots are stunningly beautiful.  However, the construction of these boots are every bit as impressive.  Goodyear Welted in Portugal with a Storm Welt and a Commando sole, they are pretty rugged as well.  Of course, while these boots are roughly modeled after the classic paratrooper boots, these are very definitely dressier boots and while I will certainly be wearing these for country walks, I won't be taking these on mountain hiking trails - I've got other boots more suitable for this usage such as my M120 Mountain boots from Fracap.  No these beauties will be worn primarily in and about town.

Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina


Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina
A feast for the eyes: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina

Carlos Santos Patina Service:
The Nobel Shoe offers 14 styles of shoes and boots from Carlos Santos in styles including from Monks and double monks, Oxfords, several styles of boots, penning loafers and even sneakers, however, if for whatever reason they don't have your chosen shoe in the patina finish you like in your size, you can special order the style you like in any of the 18 color patina finish options you fancy and they will be made up especially for you in the Carlos Santos workshops in Portugal and will typically be ready for shipment to you in 3-4 weeks.  My basic math tells me that between available shoe styles and Patina colors, there are 252 possible combinations from which you can choose to arrive at your ideal footwear!   I call that an extraordinary selection and service!





The Unboxing:
Quality presentation is the word that comes to mine, from the quality of the box, the shoehorn the brochure that explains the Goodyear welting construction method and the cloth shoe/boot travel bags everything in this presentation is of the highest quality from Carlos Santos.  I was especially impressed with the handwritten note that was included from Kostas, the owner of The Nobel Shoe Co. thanking me for my purchase.  This is the kind of personal touch that is very unusual and very much appreciated!










The Wear:
Trying on these boots, which I ordered in size UK 10/ EU 44/ US 11, they fit wonderfully - as though they had been made to measure and have marvelous comfort from the moment I slipped my feet into them.  Honestly, I can't imagine them being a more ideal fit.  The toe box is a bit longer (with a softly chiseled end) that my other shoes and boots, giving them a very elegant look that I think will pair well with dress trousers, Tweeds trousers as well as dressier chinos.


Review: Carlos Santos Jumper Boot in Coimbra Patina






 Bottom line: Carlos Santos from the Noble Shoe are an A+ option if you are looking for a great quality handmade pair of dress shoes or boots with a very distinctive hand patina finish!





Monday, February 10, 2020

Newly Arrived Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics


I have purchased a number of great items from Curzon Classics over the years, all of which I have been completely happy with.  This latest waxed cotton 'Ryder' jacket in green is no exception - I couldn't be more pleased.  Before I go any further, I want to let you know that Curzon Classics has this great jacket offered at a very great discount off their already extremely competitive price, so I recommend that if you've been considering a waxed cotton jacket, you should head over to the website right away and snag yours before they're gone.

This jacket is extremely well made in England from waxed linen Japara 6 Cupra cloth manufactured in England by heritage cloth mill British MillerainI purchased size large, which fits very well on my 6' 2" inch (188cm), 191 lb/87 kg frame.  These jackets are cut very roomy to allow for plenty of layering, which I like because wearing it my one of my chunky Aran or Guernsey fisherman sweaters makes for a beautiful combination.  The Length of this jacket is just the right to land about mid-hip, which I think is a great length, although not long enough to cover a sports coat, that won't be a problem, as with the internal knit sleeve cuff, I wouldn't be wearing it over another jacket in any case.

This jacket boasts the following features:
  • Rear vents for maximum comfort.
  • Brass 2-way zip with large ring pull and studded storm flap.
  • Snap throat latch.
  • Four large external pockets - Two bellows and two lined hand-warmer pockets. 
  • Two inner pockets - one zippered, which I really appreciate! 
  • Corduroy collar in contrasting brown.
  • Knit internal sleeve cuffs.
  • Detachable hood.
While I have not yet spent a great deal of time in the rain, as so can't testify to its assurance of waterproofness, given the heritage and reputation of Japara 6 Cupra cloth, I have no doubt that this jacket is up to the task.  I have spent time walking in the local forest in windy conditions and it works great for wind-cheating.

The Unboxing:


Kind enough to send along a complimentary tie!  Thanks!

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics Unboxing

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics tags and labels


Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - Japara Tag




Nice touch - branded snaps!

Lined in a great looking cotton plaid the I think looks great!
Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - the lining

Wonderful vintage label from Millerain fabric mill:
Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - Millerian mill label

Of course, these waxed cotton jackets are classics of British style country wear and this Curzon Classics version is no exception.  I'm looking forward to breaking it in and expect to enjoy wearing it as my 3 season jacket for my years to come.

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket


Waxed Cotton 'Ryder' Jacket from Curzon Classics - modeling jacket

Sunday, January 5, 2020

Review: Made to Measurement 8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers

8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers
8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers in Corn Color

8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers
8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers in Navy Color


This review has been a long time coming, but Life is busy and that is my only excuse for the delay.  I had had these trousers made by Spencer's Trousers a couple of years ago and that been enjoyed having my sticks swaddled in their well-made warmth in the cold months of the years since. For those of you not yet aware of Spencer's Trousers and the excellent service they provide, please see my previous review from March of 2018 of a pair of tweed trousers they had made for me with greater details of the process.

I had commissioned my Corduroy Trousers in Corn and Navy and must say the colors are fabulously rich.

8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers

8 Wale Corduroy Trousers by Spencer's Trousers







These wonderfull 8 Wale Corduroys were ordered and amazingly were delivered to my door as is Spencer's Trousers standard procedure, in less than 10 days including shipping from the UK to me here in Germany, which quite frankly is a level of service that I find to be astonishing.  The fit, as usual, is perfect.  While I ordered these with belt loops I nearly always wear them with braces, since the weight of the 8 wale cloth has them slipping off my waist and riding on my hips without the braces to keep them where I like them.  Knowing this for my next pairs, I will order them without belt loops and just perhaps or back adjusters and braces buttons (I might even be tempted to go full vintage with fish backs).  These trousers are button fly, but I like zippers just as well or more, so I will probably go for that option next time for ease of use.  Spencer's are happy to add or delete any design details I like and now that they have got the general measurement proportions that I prefer, ordering is just a matter of a couple of emails and a credit card payment.  I will say that I do wish that they accepted PayPal, as this would make the purchase process even easier. 

In any case, the hefty corduroy 8 wale cloth they use is warm enough to keep my pegs warm in even the harshest weather that Bavaria has to offer.  The result of which I generally only wear them in the colder months, but when I do wear them, I can be assured that coziness (at least from the waist down) is guaranteed.

Here shown touring the grounds of Nymphenburg Palace in Munich and the Castle at Nuremberg respectively:









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