Three Pairs of Hill Shoes: A William Lennon Obsession Continues

If you’ve been following The Landless Gentry Blog for any length of time, you’ll know that my affection for William Lennon & Co. footwear has grown well beyond the reasonable — bordering, quite frankly, on a full-blown addiction. What started few years ago with a cautious fascination for their traditional work boots has become an ongoing pursuit of craftsmanship, heritage, and style rarely found in the modern world of mass-produced footwear. This latest post celebrates not one, but three recently acquired pairs of William Lennon’s iconic Hill Shoes — two vintage finds and one made to my exacting specifications.

The Legacy of William Lennon & Co.

Before we dive into leather textures, dye techniques, and sole constructions, a few words are in order about the company at the heart of it all. William Lennon & Co. is one of Britain’s last remaining traditional bootmakers, based in the village of Stoney Middleton, Derbyshire, since 1899. Still a family-run business in its fourth generation, they continue to manufacture footwear using century-old machinery, Unique brass wire screwing construction techniques, and materials sourced from the finest British and European tanneries. Whether it’s the rugged Miner’s Boot or the humble Hill Shoe, their commitment to heritage craft is nothing short of inspiring — and utterly addictive for those of us inclined to obsess over the intersection of tradition and utility.

1. The Custom Tan Pair – Natural DHF Leather at Its Finest

Let’s start with the bespoke pair — the one that arguably set this whole recent cascade in motion. These were fully custom-made by William Lennon using natural DHF (Double Horse Fronts) leather: a dense, heavy, but supple undyed horsehide with a deeply characterful grain and a warm tone that evolves magnificently with wear. If you missed the full breakdown, do check out the earlier blog post from February here where I wax lyrical about every last stitch.

Here is the color when I originally received them this past February:

As you can see the leather started out with a light, tan-hued finish and has since begun to mellow into golden-brown honey with deepening highs and lows — a patina lover’s dream. This pair is fully sprung, giving that forward-tipped toe silhouette which adds not only visual flair but also a surprisingly effective propulsion when walking. Like the others, they are built on triple leather soles, reinforced with discreet rubber protectors for grip and longevity — essential for the unpredictable damp of the German climate. With olive waxed cotton laces and a widder EE last shape, these are truely country walkers with a still refined look.

These I have not given a high polish finish, just some neutral Saphir Renovateur and a couple light treatments of mink oil to withstand this past Bavarian winter:

    

2. The Black Pair – Pebble-Grain Zug with Brogue Detailing

While the custom tan pair was a long-anticipated build, the black ones came as something of a surprise. I stumbled upon these on eBay.de —  a rare fine — and snapped them up immediately. Constructed from classic pebble grain Zug leather, these are built to withstand the worst of British (and Bavarian) weather, and still manage to look undeniably sharp.  These look very much like the combat  boots that my father used to wear, but made into a shoe.

What sets this pair apart — besides the distinctive armored texture of the leather — is the brogue toe detail, a flourish that elevates them from pure utility to something edging into Edwardian dress territory. They are a half-sprung version of the Hill Shoe, with a slightly less aggressive toe lift, offering a more traditional and grounded walking experience compared to the fully sprung tan pair, while still giving a great walking stride.

As you can see how the Toe spring, while high is nothing like the fully sprung toe:

As you can see, I have given them a good polish, but well short of a mirror polish:

The black pebble grained Zug leather,  has a sheen that repels water and scuffs with ease. In my opinion, this is one of the most underrated leathers for functional, all-weather footwear — tough, resilient, but not overly stiff. Paired with the triple leather sole and the added rubber forepart, these are shoes I can wear confidently in almost any condition short of a full Alpine trek.

3. The Dark Brown Pair – From Medium Tan to Antique Brown Elegance

And finally, the dark horse of the trio — quite literally. This third pair also came via eBay.de, arriving in nearly pristine condition but in a color that, while great, was too close to my Tan Horsehide shoes above to make them a usefull alternative in my shoe closet. The quality of the leather was immediately apparent — smooth, fine-grained, and well-tanned — but the original color was too close to my existing DHF pair to justify keeping them as-is.

So, out came the leather dyes. Using alternating layers of chocolate brown and black dye, I slowly transformed them into the richer, deeper tone you see here: a finish I’ve christened Antique Brown, with darkened edges and toe burnishing that brings out the shape and subtle curves of the last. If I do say so myself, they’ve turned out amazingly well — there’s now a depth and complexity to the color that rivals far more expensive ready-made patinas.

After dying, I have given these a good treatment with dark brown Saphir shue cream to moisturize and condition the leather and even out the color slightly then just short of a fully mirror polish on the toes with black Saphir Medaille D'Or shoe wax.

Like the tan pair, these are fully sprung and a wider EE last, and when worn back-to-back with the black half-sprung pair, the difference in gait is noticeable. The fully sprung design almost encourages a striding walk, pushing you forward with a subtle spring effect. Some may find it takes getting used to, but I find it charmingly old-world and oddly energizing, especially on longer strolls.

As you can see, the fully spring toe is sky-high:-)

Construction Notes: Soles, Sprung Designs, and Practical Additions

One consistent feature across all three pairs is William Lennon’s triple leather sole construction — a hallmark of their commitment to durability. On top of that, I’ve added rubber sole protectors to each for grip and wet weather protection. While purists may scoff at the intrusion of modern materials, I consider it a perfectly respectable upgrade for urban wear, especially here in Germany where cobblestones and wet pavement are a near-constant.

As mentioned, William Lennon offers their Hill Shoes in either half sprung or fully sprung configurations. For the uninitiated, this refers to the degree of upward curve at the front of the shoe. The difference may seem slight at first glance, but it dramatically alters both the look and feel when walking. The half-sprung pair offers a flatter, more classic English profile - similar to traditional combat boots, while the fully sprung version feels a touch more rustic, almost cloven in silhouette — in the best possible way.

Closing Thoughts: Not Just Footwear, But a Way of Life

In acquiring these three pairs, I feel like I’ve deepened my understanding of what makes William Lennon footwear so compelling. Each pair has its own character — its own quirks, leathers, and origins — yet they all share a common spirit of authenticity, honesty, and utility. There’s no pretense here, no faux heritage. These are shoes made to last, to evolve, and to be lived in.

Whether hand-dyed, brogued, or custom-built, each of these Hill Shoes represents a different chapter in the ongoing story of my boot and shoe obsession. And if history is any guide, it won’t be the last time William Lennon makes an appearance here on The Landless Gentry Blog.

Until next time, walk well — and wear them hard.