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Tuesday, February 27, 2018

DIY: Antiquing Corcoran brown Jump Boots

My Corcoran jumpers fully Antiqued and ready to wear



A solid pair of well broken-in boots are a thing of beauty.  Having discovered a great looking a pair of circa WWII Corcoran jump boots a couple of years ago while cruising Pinterest,  led me to a chap's blog post where he was kind enough to detail the process of antiquing a new pair of Corcorans with full photos from start to finish.  In April of 2016, I bought a new pair of brown Corcoran Jump boots and decided to give it a go and I've been extremely happy with the results.  Unfortunately, this chap's blog either no longer exists or I am too dense to find it again.  So, having been asked several times how I accomplish this result, I've decided to detail the process here.  Sadly when I Antiqued my boots, I hadn't thought at the time to document the process in photographs, so this blog post will be largely descriptive.

My inspiration:
This photo of original WWII Area Corcoran jump boots were my inspiration:

A Brief history of the US Army Jump boot: 
Originally these boots were made for US Army WWII service members as paratrooper boots initially in brown and the uniform was later switched to black.  As a personal note, my father was a paratrooper early in his army career (late 1950's and early 1960's with the 82nd Airborne) and I'm sure all the boots I ever saw around the house were black, although by the time I have any memories (the early 1970's), he was no longer a jumper, having wisely switched to being a chopper pilot and I'm sure his at that time would have been the lug-soled combat style boots.   Paratrooper jump boots were designed by Lieutenant Colonel Yarborough who also designed the actual Parachutists Jump Wings, the M-1942 Uniform (WWII Paratrooper uniform) and also various other parachute delivery equipment.  You can read more about the jump boots here and here.

The man behind the boots: Lieutenant Colonel Yarborough 

Here looking the total badass in Vietnam:

These boots were only worn by Paratrooper who had earned their 'jumper' wings and were considered a right of passage among the troops at that time.  Made by Corcoran Boot Company under contract to the US Army, they were (and still are) made from very thick and strong leather uppers which were Goodyear welted to a man-made rubber sole.  Interesting, these particular boots are differentiated from standard combat boot by their Ankle reinforcement and lack of a lug sole, which were considered to be a possible hazard to get caught up in the harness and para-cord of the parachute canopy during a jump and so the jump boot version forgoes the lugs (I'm not sure if this story is heretical, but that's what I've read).

When new, this is what they look like - they have a nasty brown painted on finish, but we can soon correct this:

These fine boots have a long and storied history since World War II and have been made by the Corcoran boot Company to the same design and quality, to my knowledge during all those intervening years.  There are a couple of sources for this boots including eBay in both the US and in eBay Germany as well as several reputable Military type stores, which you can easily locate with an on line search.  It's important for our purposes that you DO NOT buy a cheaper substitute, as many of these off branded boots are made from extremely inferior leathers and may not withstand the antiquing process that is described below!!

A Word About Sizing:  
These boots fit large and are also wide (mine are 'EE').  The size I bought is US10 and fit very well. I usually wear a size US 11, so  I recommend sizing down by one whole size.  

The detailed instructions:

Things that you will need to achieve this look: 
  •  1/2 liter of denatured alcohol.  
  •  Several rags or a roll of paper towels. 
  •  Rubber gloves
  •  Thick paper or plastic to protect your working surface
  •  Neatsfoot oil. 
  •  leather Antiquing gel (Briar brown, Dark Brown or Mahogany). 
  •  Dark brown and Mahogany leather dye from Feibing's, 
  •  Kiwi Shoe polish in Brown, Cordovan, Tan and Neutral (Neutral Parade gloss works great).
  •  Also very important: heavy duty rubber gloves!!
Step 1. Breaking in your boots - this is critical for both the look and ultimately the wearability. of your boots:
1. After you've made sure the boots fit OK (they're going to be stiff as hell and torture to wear laces all the way up, but don't panic, they'll be broken in by the end) it's time to soak them in a tub of cold water overnight. The next day drain them and let them begin the dry out. 

2.  When about half dry put them on and wear them around for a day or two in order to break them in and get them to shape to your feet and calves and to achieve those great creases around the ankles. I recommend also while wearing them to do plenty of deep lunges, which with really get those creases around the ankles going. The boots will be quite stiff to start so don't plan on being able to lace them to the top right away and wearing thick socks will help prevent too much discomfort. Then as they start to soften up, lace them up a bit more until you can wear them with not too much discomfort laced to the top and just walk around for a few hours per day. 

3.  Finally take them off and let them dry completely (away from heat sources). This might take a couple of days.

Step 2. Now it's time to strip off that horrible painted on brown finish. For this you will need plenty of rags or a roll of heavy duty paper towels and the denatured alcohol. Wet a wad of paper towels or a rag and get to rubbing. Don't worry about getting every bit of the original finish out of every crease and crevice as this will add to the character of the final boots but do try to get the vast majority off. Then Allow the boots to dry for a couple of hours.


Step 3. When the boots have been stripped and have dried, treat with the neatsfoot oil. This will recondition and soften the leather and replace any of the oils that were lost through the wetting and molding and stripping process. A couple of applications are probably a good idea. Allow the neatsfoot oil to soak in and dry out for a few hours.

Step 4.   It's time to being the staining process. This is a mess so don't forget the rubber gloves. Apply a light layer of the Antiquing gel (Briar brown, Dark Brown or Mahogany) - go easy here and be prepared to wipe off right away - the exposed leather tends to soak this in at a surprising rate and you don't want your boots to get too dark. Your boots should start to look pretty cool at this point. ideally the creases and crevices will keep a bit more of the antiquing. Also, if you'll be using new leather laces like I am, you can run them through a paper towel with the Antiquing gel to give these a vintage look as well.

Step 5.  It's time to add a bit of the leather dye. Again wearing Rubber Gloves. But before you do, dilute the leather bye by mixing it 1 part Mahogany, 1 part Dark brown and 3 parts denatured alcohol. You won't need much of this - all mixed up probably less than 5 oz total will be more than enough. This will dilute the dye so that the boot will not get too dark. Apply one quick, light coat to the boots with a wadded up rag or paper towels. The color will go on dark but lighten up substantially as the alcohol dries from the leather. One quick application of the leather dye should be enough. Allow to dry for a 1 or 2 hours. if after that you want them a bit darker, apply a second coat and allow to dry.

Step 6.  Once the leather dye has completely dried. It is now time to begin using the colored shoe polish to achieve your final color. Just use several coats of wax alternating as desired between Kiwi Shoe polish in Brown, Cordovan and Tan, buffing off in between coats of different color until you achieve your desired final color. lastly several coats of the neutral parade Gloss shoe polish as a top coat and to give your a nice gloss. Remember, these are military boots so there is no such thing as too much shine. Enjoy your newly vintage jump boots!

To inspire you, here are some photos of my boots as a motivation.  To do this, you don't need to be a great leather worker or have any experience, just carefully follow the directions in order and have  patience with each step and your jump boot project can turn out great as well!!

BTW: these are the only boots/shoe that I own in which I don't use shoe trees because I really want that old school hard worn-in look:




Here is the great creasing at the ankles that I love on these boots:

You can see that even after two year of occasional us, these rubber soles show almost no wear:





42 comments:

  1. Really like the shoes. Who is the maker?

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  2. Nice looking, I had to get the 1500 as they don't make my size in the WW II version.

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  3. Those look amazing, well done! The brown ones are apparently pretty hard to find but picking up some black ones this weekend & will do the same process to them.

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    Replies
    1. Curious to see how the black boots turned out. If you ever completed this project with the black boots, send along some photos to John.thelandlessgentry@gmail.com

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  4. What color antiquing gel should be used? The link is for black.

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    1. The links in the blog post are pretty old. As I had indicated in the supply list in this post, you'll want to use - leather Antiquing gel (Briar brown, Dark Brown or Mahogany).

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  5. If I ended up using black on these, is there any saving them? I feel like quite an idiot for just following the link

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    1. I don't know, it depends on how dark they are. I use the black antiquing gel on a number of leather products over the years and since this is a water based product, so often if there is too much color, you can lift some of it off with a wet cloth. If you like, you can send photos to John.thelandlessgentry@gmail.com and I will let you know what I think.

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  6. Thanks for making this post...just finished stripping and oiling mine!

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  7. Great, I hope they turn out great, If you like send along some photos when they're done! john.thelandlessgentry@gmail.com

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  8. Thanks so much for this detailed post! I had a black pair for nearly ten years, and ever since I sold them I've missed 'em dearly.

    Question, the leather tongue and laces I used never naturally softened enough to alleviate the pain at the instep. definitely hoping your aging process can help... does the bar lacing help to reduce this as well? Thanks in advance.

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    Replies
    1. Using this method of wetting the leather by soaking overnight, allowing them to partially dry and then wearing them around for a couple of days, doing a lot of deep squats to soften the ankle and calf area really helps to both soften the boots and getting them to shape themselves to your ankle and calves. The instep is the area around the top of the foot will also be shaped to our foot in this process. I would wear very thick socks during this break-in.

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  9. You're absolutely correct re: that goofy brown paint they slop all over their jump boots. I assume some administrator at Corcoran decided that the natural color variances of the leather would look better entirely uniformal in hue for some reason, and didn't care that they now look plastic. What's worse, guy's who are [somehow] unaware of this abomination will waste time trying to polish them up to "look like grandpa's old boots from WWII or Korea", not realizing you cannot polish painted leather. I emailed Corcoran a few years ago asking them to stop this practice, or at least offer the boots in vat-dyed brown leather (which is how grandpa's boots were issued), but never received a response. Just came across your blog, good job on informing anyone who cares how to fix this issue... the "antique" finish is very much worth the effort, in my book. Take care.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, I've had a number of readers take up the project following my directions and with great results. Certainly for those that love the look of old leather, worth the time and expense.

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  10. Has anyone tried the above method for stripping ugly coating without giving the boots a bath?

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    Replies
    1. You can certainly strip the brown finish without soaking the leather in water.
      Step No. 1 is only meant to soften the leather in order to break them in faster and to give them a worn-in look. You can certainly skip step No. 1 and strip the finish using either alcohol or acetone as described in step No. 2.

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    2. Awesome thanks. I just ordered my pair yesterday …later noticed how fake they looked and your post popped up when I searched ugly brown corcoran jump boot leather 😂

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    3. The boots have a terrible finish out of the box, but if you are adventurous, and want to take on a BIY project, with a little work can be made to look incredible and if broken in in the manor I recommend, will result an a boot that is extremely comfortable as well. Fundamentally, boots themselves are built like a tank and are certainly capable of lasting a lifetime.

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    4. My boots today. Looking forward to starting the stripping process. No issues with acetone weakening the stitching I would assume?? Yours turned out great

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    5. No, Acetone (or denatured alcohol) is used to strip the color on leather goods frequently and it is not a problem (check out the Elegant Oxford YouTube channel, he uses Acetone all the time in order to remove old finishes from shoes.

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    6. This post was a huge help. I’m just about complete. Mine are turning into a rich looking cordovan. Just need to get my hands on some neutral gloss for the finishing touch.

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    7. Yes, the parade gloss is going to really give your boots a super shine! Please be sure to send along some photos (john.thelandlessgentry@gmail.com), I always love to set peoples results.

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  11. Does anyone know what antiquing gel color was used in the publisher’s photos? He mentions three colors but I’d like to replicate his color.

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    Replies
    1. Mike,
      I can't recall off hand, I will have the check and let you know when I get into the workshop later today.

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  12. Thanks for the awesome detail, about to this myself! Curious, will the boots still be water resistant? Does any of the dye come off in wet condition?

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    Replies
    1. Also, no, this leather dye is not water based (it's alcohol based) and so will not come off in the wet.

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  13. Yes, I have worn these consistently in the rain without issue. There is probably about 10 layers of wax on them by now and the toes and the heals of the boots take a mirror shine very well. Of course, I have not stood in puddles - they Gore-Tex lined so I wouldn't expect them to be totally waterproof. Also, given the very low-profile rubber outsole I don't wear them in the snow. but walking in the rain you should have no issues.

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  14. Greatings everyone! Has anyone had trouble stripping the paint / coating on their Corcoran? I have tried acetone and denatured alcohol and I am having a really hard time. I stripped a pair, very easily, a couple years ago, that I had purchased a couple years prior. The old pair had the black soles. This new pair have brown soles and the model number on the tongue is CV1511. Any recommendations on a better stripping agent that won't destroy the leather?

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    Replies
    1. I bought mine in Nov 2022 and they are the CV1511 with the brown soles. Denatured alcohol worked fine but I had to saturate the leather to get it to work. If I was you, I’d avoid soaking them in a pale of water and wearing them damp to create creases as I’m pretty sure that was the process step which stretched the leather on a section of one of my boots more than normal.

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    2. Mike, I'm wondering if Corcoran has changed the quality of the leather they're using becasue the leather on my boots is quite thick and there was no chance of stretching it in a bad way other than to help with shortening the break-in period. My boots were unwearable due to the stiffness of the leather until a put them through the wetting process. Also, in the review that Rose & Anvil did on YouTube, he said the leather was quite thin, which I didn't find the case at all.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkX3sZDBZZE

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  15. General question....how long is it talking ya'll to strip your boots? I am using denatured alcohol and it is taking forever! It just doesn't seem to be cutting the coating. I did a pair a few years back and did not have this much trouble.

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    Replies
    1. Chris,
      Hmm, I think that it only took about an hour of solid work (maybe a couple of hours in total). if the alcohol is not working you might also try acetate. If that doesn't work Corcoran may have changed the finish/leather that they use on their boots. In this case, unfortunately, I don't know how you should proceed. Let me know how it goes!

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    2. Yeah....change in the coating material is what I am thinking as well. I have reached out to the manufacturer, but they probably won't provide any info. Did you mean acetone when you said "acetate"?

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    3. Chris,
      Yes, I ment Acetone. Sorry for my confusion.

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  16. It took a couple hours for both boots which included the sides of the soles, too. It is a very messy process.

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  17. I couldn’t replicate the weathered look even though I followed the steps to a “t”. Sticking them in water or using too much alcohol caused the leather on one of my boots to overstretch. If I dos this again, I wouldn’t worry about trying to weather/break in the leather.

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  18. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  19. Sakura, I could not say is the black boots can be stripped in the same way as the Corcoran Jump boots (Corcoran may also have changed the finish and quality of the leather that they are using on their brown boots, too, which may preclude this process. My only recommendation would be to give it a try on an inconspicuous area to see.

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    1. Hi dangerous9straps, apologies for my comment deletion. Having tech difficulties. Still haven't been able to get my Corcorans from storage, but I do promise to show what happens to them with my experiments. I did find a brown pair my size for a steal I hope to jump on so it will make this 10x easier.

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