William Lennon & Co. Hill Shoes – A Vintage Classic with Modern Durability

When it comes to handcrafted footwear with a true heritage feel, few companies can match the authenticity and craftsmanship of William Lennon & Co. (Established 1899). My latest addition from this esteemed British bootmaker is a pair of Hill Shoes, custom-made from Natural DHF (Double Horse Fronts) leather from the legendary Horween Tannery in Chicago. These shoes not only exude vintage charm but also promise exceptional durability and comfort with their unique construction and materials.

Horween Tannery – A Legacy of Excellence

Founded in 1905, Horween Tannery is one of the most respected leather producers in the world. Based in Chicago, Horween has built a reputation for crafting some of the finest leathers available, used in everything from luxury footwear to high-end watch straps and even NFL footballs. Their DHF (Double Horse Fronts) leather is a prime example of their expertise—thick, durable, and full of character, this undyed leather develops a rich patina over time, making it the perfect choice for shoes that only get better with age.

Handcrafted Construction & Unique Design

These Hill Shoes feature a triple-layer leather sole with a natural edge finish, stacked leather heels, and Svig rubber forepart and heel outsoles. This combination provides an excellent balance between traditional aesthetics and modern-day durability. The leather soles allow for natural wear and flexibility, while the Svig rubber outsoles offer additional grip and longevity.

A standout feature of these shoes is William Lennon's fully sprung toe design. This vintage-style construction gives the shoes a distinctive upward curve at the front, creating a rocking motion that practically propels you forward with each step. It will be interesting to see how my feet and gait adapt to this unique toes-up foot position over time.

Brass Screw Machine Construction –  more than A Nod to Tradition

Unlike most modern shoes that use a Goodyear welt, William Lennon employs brass screw machine construction—one of the last bootmakers to do so. This method, reminiscent of traditional wooden peg construction once common in European shoemaking, ensures a sturdy, long-lasting build. Finished off with Antique Brass eyelets and leather laces, the result is are shoes that feels both historically authentic and incredibly robust.

The above photo curtesy of William Lennon website

For those interested in the craftsmanship behind these shoes, William Lennon & Co. provides a fascinating look inside their factory and construction process. You can explore it further here.

Final Thoughts

With their handcrafted construction, premium Horween leather, and vintage-inspired design, these Hill Shoes by William Lennon & Co. are a true investment in quality footwear. Whether you're a fan of heritage workwear or simply appreciate well-made shoes, they offer a unique blend of history and practicality that’s hard to find elsewhere. If you're interested in a pair, you can check them out here.

WWI B5 Boots by William Lennon & Co.

 

William Lennon WWI B5 boots

William Lennon B5 Boots – A Handsome Brute of a Boot

If you have been following this blog or my recent Facebook/Instagram posts, it will come as no surprise that I have recently become somewhat obsessed by William Lennon & Co.  Having been thoroughly impressed by my 78TC custom work boots from William Lennon & Co. and the Pentrich boots from Stanley Biggs (also made by William Lennon), I was eager to try something a little different—something with the same rugged, old-world craftsmanship but with a more military-inspired design. Enter the B5 ankle boots, a classic British Army-style boot, available through Varusteleka.

First Impressions

Straight out of the box, these boots exude history. The design is based on the British Army B5 boot pattern, used from the early 20th century provided to troops in the Great War. William Lennon (estabished 1899) were one of the original contractors for these boots as use the same Brass Screw contrstuction and lasts, so these are more of a continuation series as opposed to replicas.

It’s a no-frills, tough-as-nails boot built for hard wear. The uppers are crafted from sturdy 3mm thick Black reverse kip butt hide, tanned in the UK.  Kip leather is a high-quality, full-grain leather sourced from young cattle, making it softer and more pliable than standard cowhide while retaining excellent toughness.

The heritage brass-screw construction, for which William Lennon is famed, is solid, and the double-layer leather mid-soles (natural finish as I prefer) combined with Svig rubber forepart and heel outsoles provide excellent durability and traction. Unlike the original Great War boots, which featured iron hobnails, this modern interpretation is designed for street wear without compromising on heritage aesthetics.

The simple seven-eyelet lacing system, combined with a no-nonsense soft-toe design, gives the B5 an understated but distinctly vintage look. The thick, black-finished Kip leather is substantial yet supple, with a deep, rich sheen that promises to develop character over time.

Fit & Comfort

William Lennon boots often require a break-in period, and the B5 is no exception. The thick leather and sturdy sole mean they start off feeling a bit stiff, but after a few wears, they begin to mold nicely to the foot. Sizing of the original WWI 2181 last is very generous, so consider a half-size down if you're between sizes.  At first I wasn't so sure about the squarish toe profile and wider instep of this last, but it's been growning on me and it certainly provides great walking stability.  

As you can see from the above photos, I have choosen to switch out the leather laces that came with these boots to 6mm flat waxed cotton laces from Italian Premium lace maker Laccico (highly Recommended).

Verdict

If you appreciate heritage footwear and want something that blends military history with everyday wearability, the William Lennon B5 boots are an excellent choice. They're built to last, age beautifully, and offer a slice of history with every step. The use of modern rubber outsoles instead of iron hobnails ensures they remain practical for daily wear while staying true to their rugged origins.

Check them out at Varusteleka.

Timeless Quality: WoolOvers Aran Sweater in Moss Green

 

Timeless Quality: WoolOvers Aran Sweater in Moss Green

A New Addition to a Trusted Collection

After seven years of unwavering performance from my original WoolOvers Aran sweaters in Charcoal, Navy, French Navy, and Kiltimagh, I am delighted to introduce the latest addition to my collection: a stunning Olive Green version. Back in February 2018, I sang the praises of these sweaters for their remarkable quality and value, and I am thrilled to report that this newest arrival upholds the very same high standards.

The first batch: 

Consistency in a Changing Market

In a market where many products seem to diminish in quality over time, it is heartening to encounter a brand that consistently delivers. This Moss Green Aran Sweater is indistinguishable in craftsmanship from its predecessors. The intricate cable knit pattern is as robust and precise as ever, and the overall feel of the sweater—from the soft, breathable wool to the impeccable stitching—reaffirms WoolOvers’ commitment to excellence.

Remarkable Durability Over Time

What truly stands out is how well my older sweaters have endured. After being in regular rotation for nearly half the year over the past seven years, they still look remarkably fresh. I’ve noticed almost no pilling, a common and frustrating issue with knitwear. On the rare occasions a bit of pilling has occurred, it has been minimal and easily removed, leaving the sweaters looking pristine. This durability is a testament to WoolOvers’ use of high-quality materials and meticulous production standards.

Here Styled with Selvage Denims from Pike Brothers, Natural Horsehide boots by William Lennon Co. and Watch my Baltany

A Note on Sizing

One detail worth noting is a slight shift in sizing. My original quartet of sweaters were ordered in size medium, providing a snug but comfortable fit for my 6'2" (188cm), 190-pound (88kg) frame. For the new Moss Green sweater, I opted for a size large to achieve an identical fit. It’s a reminder to always check updated size charts, but rest assured, the sweater’s fit remains perfect for layering under tweed sports coats—a combination I find both practical and stylish.

Here is the current sizing Chart (still nicely detailed to make ordering a fault-free as possible):

measurements of the garment

Size	length of the garment	width of the garment	sleeve length
S	27.6	17.7	25
M	28.3	19.3	25.2
L	29.1	20.9	25.4
XL	29.9	22.4	25.6
XXL	30.7	24	25.8

A Timeless Investment

This consistency in quality, fit, and style is rare in today’s fast-fashion landscape. WoolOvers has not only maintained their standards but has reaffirmed their reputation as a trusted source for timeless knitwear. For anyone considering investing in an Aran sweater, I wholeheartedly recommend this Moss Green beauty—and the brand as a whole. Huzzah to WoolOvers for proving that some things truly can improve with age, or at least stay as spectacular as they were from the start.

Heavyweight Henley Shirts by Bronson MFG. Co.

Heavyweight Henley Shirts by Bronson MFG. Co.

Heavyweight Henley Shirts by Bronson MFG. Co. - The wind cut sharp through the trees. The world felt hard and cold, but the shirt held firm. Bronson MFG. Co. makes Henley shirts the way things used to be made—heavy, honest, and built to last.

These Henleys have three buttons, though you’ll rarely need to use them. The 12.3 oz. cotton feels like armor against the chill. It’s thick but breathes well, warm without smothering. You wear it, and it wears you back, shaping to your frame with time and sweat.

The colors are no-nonsense: White, Ecru (Apricot), Marle Grey, and Navy. The White and Ecru are for men who rise with the sun and don’t mind getting dirty. Marle Grey and Navy speak of long days and longer nights, honest work and earned rest. They look good without trying, like men who know their way through the world.

The details matter. The stitching holds strong, and the neckline sits right—neither too tight nor too loose. It’s tailored but not precious, a shirt that belongs in the wild or by the fire. Layer it or wear it solo—it’s good company either way.

These Henleys aren’t for show. They’re for the long haul. They’re for men who carry their history with them but keep moving forward. If you want a shirt that stands up to life, Bronson MFG. Co.’s heavyweight Henleys are worth your time.

Get the shirt that works as hard as you do—and wear it like you mean it.

Harris Tweed 'Shelby' Cap by Sterkowski Hat & Cap Makers

Harris Tweed 'Shelby' Cap by Sterkowski Hat & Cap Makers

Harris Tweed 'Shelby' Cap by Sterkowski Hat & Cap Makers - As the chill of winter sets in, I found myself drawn to a classic piece of headwear that blends timeless style with enduring craftsmanship—the Medium Grey Harris Tweed Cap from Sterkowski Hat & Cap Makers. Renowned for their heritage craftsmanship, Sterkowski has been crafting hats and caps in Poland since 1926, and this cap lives up to their storied reputation.

The first thing that struck me upon unboxing was the exceptional texture of the Harris Tweed. Woven in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, the wool’s rugged softness perfectly balances warmth and durability. The grey mélange, subtly flecked with lighter and darker tones, offers a versatile aesthetic that pairs well with everything from tweed blazers to leather jackets.

This is the 3rd cap that I have purchased from Sterkowski, (see my previous review here), and I can say definitely, that they make a quality product.

The unboxing:

Sterkowski provides a nice sturdy hat box for their shipping along with quatily details about them and the hat you have purchase, which is just what I would expect form a premium company:

Head Fit:

Finding a traditional baker boy cap that fits my smaller (size 56cm) head without looking oversized can be a challenge. Enter the recently introduced ‘Shelby’ cap from Sterkowski Hat & Cap Makers—a well-crafted 8-piece Baker Boy style cap with a narrower (22cm) crown than their popular ‘Peaky’ cap (25cm crown). For my narrow head shape, the 3cm smaller crown really made a huge difference. It strikes the perfect balance of heritage style and modern fit, making it an ideal choice for those of us with more modest head sizes.

What truly sets this cap apart is its fit. While Sterkowski’s ‘Peaky’ cap features a more traditional, fuller crown, the ‘Shelby’ cap’s narrower profile creates a sleeker, more tailored silhouette. This design keeps the cap from looking too bulky on smaller heads—a refreshing change in a market often dominated by oversized styles.

Fit and comfort are where this cap truly shines. Its deep crown and slightly curved peak create a flattering silhouette reminiscent of 1920s working-class style—a nod to heritage while remaining effortlessly modern.  

Craftsmanship:

The craftsmanship is exactly what you’d expect from Sterkowski, a family-run business crafting hats since 1926. The cap features a viser with just the right amount of curve, providing structure without stiffness. Inside, cotton fabric lining ensures comfort in all but the harshest weathers, making the ‘Shelby’ cap as practical as it is stylish.  The Sterkowski name and Harris Tweed label inside the lining serves as a quiet assurance of authenticity and quality.

Conclusion:

After several outings, I can confidently say that this cap has become a staple in my wardrobe. It blends old-world craftsmanship with a modern fit, offering both style and function in equal measure. Whether you’re a vintage style enthusiast or simply looking for a practical and stylish 3 season cap, the Grey Harris Tweed Cap from Sterkowski is a worthy investment. It’s a cap with history, character, and purpose—just the way we like it here at The Landless Gentry.

Styling:

Here are just a few of the ways that I have styled it so far - being a neutral color, it's easy to incorporate into many outfit combinations: